Bony smoked pig parts, such as hocks and neck bones, are the most familiar seasoning for the potlikker, but smoked turkey wings are now preferred by some cooks. They behave the same way in the pot.

Makes about 8 cups

1 pound smoked ham hocks or the like
3 carrots peeled and coarsely chopped (optional)
2 celery stalks, peeled and coarsely chopped (optional)
4 large thyme sprigs
1 medium onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
12 cups water

1. Place all of the ingredients in a large pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, partially cover the pot, and simmer, skimming occasionally, until the stock is richly flavored and has reduced to about 8 cups, 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Strain. Pull any meat from the hocks and return to the stock, if you wish. Discard the remaining solids.

2. Use soon or cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze in airtight containers for up to 2 months.